Posted by Jake Campbell
on July 01, 2026
Installing exterior shutters is a two-hour project that permanently upgrades your curb appeal — and you don't need a contractor. Here's how to do it right on wood siding, brick, or stucco.
What you'll need: drill, level, tape measure, painter's tape, exterior-grade screws (stainless or coated), and — for brick or stucco — a masonry bit and plastic anchors or Tapcon screws.
Before you start: make sure your shutters are the right size for your windows. If you haven't ordered yet, read how to measure windows for exterior shutters first.
Step 1: Position the Shutters
Shutters mount to the wall beside the window, aligned with the top and bottom of the window trim. Hold each shutter in place (a second person helps) and check two things: the top edge is level with the window's top, and the inner edge sits tight to the trim. Tape the position and step back to the street — this is the view that matters.
Step 2: Mark and Pre-Drill
Most shutters use four to six mounting points — two or three per side, a few inches in from the top and bottom edges. For panels taller than 36", use three screws per side rather than two — the middle fastener prevents the shutter from bowing away from the wall over time. Mark through the shutter's mounting holes with a pencil, set the shutter aside, and pre-drill. Pre-drilling prevents cedar from splitting and keeps screws going in straight.
Installing on Wood or Fiber Cement Siding
The simplest case: drive exterior-grade screws through the shutter into the siding, ideally hitting the sheathing or a stud line. Use stainless or coated screws — bare steel streaks rust down your siding after the first rainy season.
Installing on Vinyl Siding
Vinyl expands and contracts with temperature, so never crush it tight against the wall. Drive screws through the vinyl into the sheathing or studs behind it, and stop tightening the moment the shutter is snug — overtightening dimples the siding and can crack it in cold weather. Standoff spacers behind the mounting points keep the shutter flat while letting the vinyl move.
Installing Shutters on Brick
Two rules for brick: drill into the mortar joints, not the brick faces, whenever your mounting holes allow it (mortar is repairable; brick isn't), and use a masonry bit sized to your anchor. Tap in plastic anchors and drive the screws, or skip anchors entirely and use Tapcon masonry screws. Drill slightly deeper than the screw length and blow the dust out of the hole before fastening.
Installing on Stucco
Treat stucco like brick: masonry bit, anchors or Tapcons, and moderate torque — overtightening cracks the stucco shell around the hole. If your stucco is over wood framing, longer screws that reach the sheathing give the strongest hold.
Step 3: Seal and Check
A small dab of exterior sealant in each hole before driving the screw keeps water out of the wall. For an even tighter install, run a bead of caulk around the back perimeter of the shutter before mounting — but leave the bottom edge open so any moisture that gets behind the shutter can drain out. Once mounted, check that shutters sit flat — if the wall is uneven, nylon spacers behind the mounting points stop the shutter from flexing when tightened.
Mistakes That Ruin the Look
- Undersized shutters — each shutter should be roughly half the window width and match its height
- Mounting too far from the trim — shutters should look like they could actually close over the window
- Bare steel fasteners — rust streaks are nearly impossible to remove from siding
- Skipping the level — a crooked shutter is visible from the street forever
Once they're up, a little maintenance goes a long way — here's how to protect your exterior wood shutters from sun and weather.
Shopping first? Our cedar exterior shutters — board & batten wood shutters, Z-bar, X-bar, and horizontal slat — ship in pairs, ready to mount. Not sure which style suits your house? Read our exterior shutter styles guide.
